Guide

Exfoliants: AHA, BHA & PHA

Which exfoliant do you need?

is, without a doubt, one of skincare’s most powerful tools. Although often misunderstood and sometimes overused, it’s undeniably transformative when done correctly. work on the skin surface, work within the pores, PHAs work like AHAs but are gentler, and physical exfoliants work on the skin surface using friction.

Freddie’s take

Today’s formulas span a sophisticated spectrum of chemical and physical exfoliants, with each offering specific benefits to serve an array of skin types and concerns.

My rules are simple: build up your usage gradually, never layer exfoliants on top of one another, always moisturise afterwards, and always apply a sunscreen daily to protect new skin cells.

Match the exfoliant to your skin

AHAs: glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid

Water-soluble acids that loosen the ‘glue’ that holds dead skin cells to the skin, to smooth and brighten the complexion. Ideal for uneven texture, discolouration, dullness and fine lines. Suitable for normal, combination and mature skin types.

BHAs: salicylic acid

Oil-soluble acids which penetrate deep into the pores to dissolve excess sebum and dead skin cells. Ideal for acne, blemishes, blackheads, enlarged pores and excess oil. Suitable for oily, combination and blemish-prone skin types. Start with a lower concentration (0.5% - 1%) 1-2 times per week.

PHAs: the gentle option

Because of their large molecular size, PHAs penetrate the skin at a slower rate without causing irritation, and they also bind moisture to the skin. Suitable for sensitive, dry, reactive and eczema-prone skin types.

Physical exfoliants

Finely-milled scrubs that buff away dead, dull skin cells for immediate, surface-level results. Suitable for normal and oily skin types; avoid if you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, and use sparingly, typically 1-2 times per week.

My top tips when using exfoliants

If you’re using a new product for the first time, gradually increase your usage over a couple of weeks to allow your skin time to build up tolerance.

PM is recommended, to work alongside your skin’s natural overnight regeneration process. Apply after cleansing and before the rest of your routine.

Never layer exfoliants on top of one another, e.g. do not apply a BHA on top of an AHA. Some products combine exfoliants, but these are an expertly-formulated balance that’s been tested for safe use.

Always moisturise after any and every form of exfoliation, and always apply a sunscreen daily to protect new skin cells.

Routine plannerCheck how your actives fit togetherAdd what is already on your shelf to see your morning and evening order and avoid ingredient clashes.